やること

Todo

3 stays · 6 train legs
Stays · still open
Kyoto25–28 SepDeep supply, book late if you must
Kōchi7 OctNear the station or Hirome
Tokyo, back half8–9 OctBirthday dinner on the 9th too

Done — Tokyo 20–24 Sep A · Miyajima A · Setoda G · Matsuyama A · Iya A · Shimanami bikes G · JAL494 A

Trains · seats open 1 month out
LegBook onOpens
25 Sep · Tokyo → KyotoSmart EX25 Aug
29 Sep · Kyoto → Hiroshimae548929 Aug
1 Oct · Hiroshima → Fukuyamae54891 Sep
2 Oct · Imabari → Matsuyamae54892 Sep
5 Oct · Matsuyama → Ōbokee5489 · one booking, via Tadotsu5 Sep
7 Oct · Ōboke → Kōchie54897 Sep

Point-to-point throughout, ¥30–35k / €175–205 pp — the route doubles back too little for a pass to pay. IC card for trams, locals and buses.

概要

Overview

20 Sep – 10 Oct 2026 · Albert & Georgina
DatesNtsBaseBooked byShape of it
20–24 Sep5 TokyoAlbert Family. Silver Week — stay put
25–28 Sep4 KyotoOpen Temples, neighbourhoods, Nara
29–30 Sep2 MiyajimaAlbert P-Stay ToriiHouse · Hiroshima day trip
1 Oct1 Setoda, IkuchijimaGeorgina Shimanami day 1 · BONAPOOL
2–4 Oct3 Matsuyama · MitsuAlbert Sardine Lullaby · onsen, henro walk, rest day
5–6 Oct2 Iya / MiyoshiAlbert 古民家ステイMatoba · whole house
7 Oct1 KōchiOpen Castle, Hirome Market
8–9 Oct2 TokyoOpen Birthday on the 9th
10 Oct Narita → home Allow ~2h from central Tokyo
行程表

Day by day

Five bases in the last nine days, three of them 1–2 nights — the real cost of this route

Tokyo

Booked 20–24 SEP · 5 NIGHTS

In at Narita, then family time — and the right shape for the week: 19–23 Sep is Silver Week, five days off with three public holidays inside it, so domestic travel and every headline sight is at its busiest. Staying put through it is the correct call rather than a compromise.

Leave on the 25th, once the country has gone back to work.

InNarita · ~1h to the centre by N'EX, or Skyliner to Ueno
Holidays21 敬老の日 · 22 国民の休日 · 23 秋分の日
Cash7-Eleven ATMs take foreign cards · pick up an IC card for trams, locals and buses

Kyoto

25–28 SEP · 4 NIGHTS

Temples, neighbourhoods, evening walks. Four nights is the right number — enough to stop treating it as a checklist.

Spend the out-of-centre day on Nara: 45 minutes out, Tōdai-ji at the end of it. Arashiyama is a morning, not a day, and doesn't deserve the same slot.

Get inTōkaidō Shinkansen ~2h15
Fare≈¥14,000 / €82
TicketSmart EX
Nara45 min · Tōdai-ji

Miyajima

Booked 29 SEP · ARRIVAL DAY
P-Stay宮島ToriiHouse
In Tue 29 Sep · 16:00–23:00 Out Thu 1 Oct · by 11:00 By Albert
宮島町89-2, Hatsukaichi, Hiroshima · apartment, self check-in

Kyoto → Hiroshima 1h40, plus 25 minutes to Miyajimaguchi and a 10-minute ferry. ≈3h door to door, arriving early afternoon. Lockers at the ferry terminal cover the gap before 16:00 — carry ¥100 coins.

Itsukushima Shrine and Daishō-in in the daylight, dinner on the island, then the illuminated torii once the day-trippers have gone. That last hour is the entire reason to sleep here.

RailKyoto → Hiroshima 1h40
Local+25 min to Miyajimaguchi
Ferry10 min · ¥200 each way
TaxVisitor tax ¥100 pp, inbound only
Tickete5489 for western Japan

Hiroshima day trip

30 SEP · BASED ON MIYAJIMA

Peace Memorial Park, the museum, okonomiyaki. Back to the island for the evening — you keep the good half of the day either side of the crowds.

Optional Mt Misen by ropeway, then roughly 30 minutes on foot to the summit.

Action Send the Matsuyama bag from Hiroshima, not the island — the apartment is unstaffed, and Hiroshima Station has a Yamato counter. ¥2,000–2,500 / €12–15 a bag. Valuables, medication and power banks stay with you.
BagsYamato takkyūbin · Hiroshima → Matsuyama hotel, skips the cycling days

Shimanami day 1 → Setoda

Booked Tightest day 1 OCT · ~30 KM
BONAPOOL
By Georgina
瀬戸田町瀬戸田1-1 2階, Onomichi, Hiroshima · on the Shiomachi arcade

First ferry off Miyajima, then train via Hiroshima and Fukuyama to Onomichi, arriving ~10:00. Onomichi is ramen-and-go: Senkō-ji is dropped deliberately to buy back slack.

Bikes at ~11:00 — the rental terminal is now in front of Onomichi Station. Take the central Onomichi ferry across to Mukaishima (¥110 pp, cash) rather than riding the first bridge, then follow the painted blue line.

≈30 km to Setoda: Kōsan-jilast entry 16:30, which is the only real deadline on the day — lemon groves, and a quiet port town at the end of it.

If it rains The Onomichi → Setoda ferry takes bikes and skips the ride entirely. The cycling days are the weather-sensitive part of the trip; nothing else is.
earlyFirst ferry off Miyajima
~10:00Onomichi · ramen
~11:00Collect bikes
Central ferry → Mukaishima
~30 kmBlue line to Setoda
16:30Kōsan-ji last entry

Bikes Two days, one-way Onomichi → Imabari.

Shimanami day 2 → Matsuyama

2 OCT · ~40 KM
いわしの子守唄 Sardine Lullaby
In Fri 2 Oct · 15:00–21:00 Out Mon 5 Oct · morning By Albert
三津2-11-22, Matsuyama, Ehime · Mitsu, the old port · 3 nights

≈40 km to Imabari. Ōmishima and Ōyamazumi Shrine, the long approach to the Tatara Bridge, and at the end the Kurushima Kaikyō crossing — whose approach spirals are longer than they look on the map.

The route ends at Sunrise Itoyama, at the foot of the last bridge, but that's still 8 km of flat city road short of the station. Ride them and return the bikes at the Imabari Station terminal, so you finish next to the train rather than a bus stop.

Limited express to Matsuyama ~35 min, then the Iyotetsu line out to Mitsu, the old port on the west side. Dōgo is 25–30 minutes back across town by tram — worth it in the evening, which is exactly what two days of riding earns.

If it rains The Shimanami Liner bus covers the whole day, Onomichi through to Matsuyama.
RideSetoda → Itoyama ≈33 km, + 8 km into town
DropImabari Station Cycling Terminal
RailImabari → Matsuyama ~35 min

Shikoku Henro · temples 46–51

3 OCT · ≈12 KM · 5–6H

A walkable slice of the 88-temple pilgrimage, ending about a kilometre from where you're sleeping. Outskirts and rice fields rather than mountains — this is a long walk, not a hike.

Tram to Matsuyama-shi, then Iyotetsu bus to Jōruriji, roughly 40 minutes.

Buy a nōkyōchō at the first temple and have it inscribed at each one — ¥300–500 each, cash, offices close at 17:00. The calligraphy is the souvenir.

NoTempleLeg
46Jōruriji 浄瑠璃寺start
47Yasakaji 八坂寺~1 km
48Sairinji 西林寺~4.5 km
49Jōdoji 浄土寺~1.7 km
50Hantaji 繁多寺~1.7 km
51Ishiteji 石手寺~1 km to Dōgo

Matsuyama · open day

4 OCT · DELIBERATE REST

Rest day by design, after ride–ride–walk. Matsuyama Castle (one of twelve surviving originals), the tram, a slow day.

If the legs are willing: Uchiko (25 min, preserved streets) and Ōzu (40 min, castle town) sit on the same line and combine easily.

Action Send the Tokyo bag today, from Matsuyama — not from Kōchi on the 7th: Shikoku to Tokyo is two days in transit, not overnight. Give the Tokyo hotel the arrival date and they'll hold it.

Iya Valley

Booked 5–6 OCT · 2 NIGHTS
古民家ステイMatoba
In Mon 5 Oct · 16:00–00:00 Out Wed 7 Oct · by 10:00 By Albert
175, Miyoshi, Tokushima · whole kominka, arrival time set with the host

Matsuyama → Ōboke ≈4h, changing at Tadotsu — Shiokaze as far as there, then the Nanpū down the Dosan line. Routing via Okayama backtracks over the Seto bridge and costs the better part of an hour.

The house is self-catering, so food comes with you: stop at Awa-Ikeda, one stop before Ōboke, where there are supermarkets by the station. Iya's few soba places close mid-afternoon.

5th — arrive, settle in. 6th — vine bridge in the morning, Ōboke gorge boat in the afternoon.

Green mountains at this date, not autumn colour. Oku-Iya and Mt Tsurugi are awkward without a car — skip unless a taxi tour is arranged in advance.

BookBoth legs on one e5489 itinerary
BridgeKazurabashi · 08:00–17:00
CashThin ATM country — draw before you get here, and stock up at Awa-Ikeda

Kōchi

7 OCT · 1 NIGHT

Ōboke → Kōchi ≈1h on a late-morning train.

Castle first — last entry 16:30, and it's the only castle in Japan whose original honmaru palace is still standing. The market will still be there afterwards; the castle won't.

Then Hirome Market: katsuo tataki seared over burning straw, and drinks.

Kōchi → Tokyo

Booked 8 OCT

Airport bus from Kōchi Station, ≈30 min. In the city by 14:00, so this is a full afternoon and evening rather than a write-off travel day.

09:30Leave hotel
~10:00Kōchi Ryōma airport
11:20JAL494 departs
12:40Haneda
~14:00In the city

Tokyo · birthday

9–10 OCT

The 9th is entirely free, and deliberately so — it's the fixed point the back half of the trip was built around.

Home from Narita on the 10th. Allow roughly two hours door to gate from central Tokyo: the Narita Express runs about an hour from Tokyo Station, the Skyliner about 41 minutes from Ueno, and international check-in wants a further two hours on top.